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My LS Powered S10
Doing what GM should have done.
The SS s10. The truck has a LS powered 5.3 with a choppy little cam and full range of exhaust notes ranging from open longtubes to the sound of just the intake with the electric cutouts and large factory mufflers. I drive this reliable LS truck everyday in 100 degree weather with the a/c on while getting 25mpg. At the track the truck runs a 12 flat in the 1/4 mile on motor and high 10's on nitrous.
Designing a high performance s10 pickup.
The truck came with a 4.3 liter motor pushing about 150rwhp. I decided the designated motor to replace the original 4.3 would have to be built by GM and not cost an arm and a leg, while still meeting the reliably standards of the 4.3. This motor would need to surpass the original gas mileage of the 4.3 while developing twice the amount of power. I chose the 5.3 LS based motor and it has fulfilled all of the above; putting down 340rwhp(N/A), only costing 500 bucks from the junkyard, getting 25mpg, and can take one hell of a beating. Once the additional power was added I had to account for the variables it would effect.
With the addition of the added power there would now be more wear and strain on the drive-train components. These components such as the stall convertor, transmission, drive-shaft, and rear-end would now need to meet higher standards of strength in order to deal with the extra stresses caused from the higher power output.
-Traction & Handling(Semi-detailed)
Traction becomes even more of an issue when you add more power to an already light weight truck that has the majority of its weight distributed on the front end. Traction can be improved by manipulating weight transfer and distribution of forces. So many factors come into play when you are trying to gain traction, such as the suspension components and materials used. A great way to gain a lot of traction with a leaf-spring style suspension is by adding a system on the rear leaf-springs that when under stress, directs the forces directly into the ground. Almost like adding weight to press the tires down but without the actual addition of any weight. When it comes to shocks and springs everything needs to be adjustable. This way you can correct the setup for the changing conditions wherever you are. Dialing in the adjustable suspension has two basic factors, those are the compression and rebound which effect the way a vehicle rises and falls when under acceleration, breaking, and cornering. When it comes to transferring weight you must make sure there is no binding or stiction in the suspension other wise there will be energy wasted. A great way to reduce this is by replacing the stock rubber bushings with a stiction free derlin bushing that also greatly improves the handling and control of the vehicle. Tires are a big factor as well. In most cases you will always have to sacrifice some advantage in one department to gain in another. It's up to you to find out where that line is drawn.
Fully loaded LS
SS bumper cover
Relocated tailgate handle
Goodmark 2" cowl hood
17x8 / 17x11 Street Lite Billet Specialties
Nitto 555 (245/45/R17)
Mickey Thompson ET Radial II (315/35/R17)
2/3 beltech spindle/leaf drop
Bravada center shift console
Electric leather Blazer seats
8" Bazooka Tub
TR 220 cam
Ported F.A.S.T. 78
Ported 78mm TB
Tuned by Fields High Performance
ASP underdrive pulley
Racetronix fuel pump
DMH electric cutouts
Fullsize factory mufflers (deleted cats)
B&M tranny cooler
Nitrous Outlet plate system (150 wet shot)
NOS mini progressive controller
2" Beltech spindle drop
3" Beltech leaf drop
1" Lowering block
QA1 adj. front coil overs
CalvertRacing 9way rear shocks
Spohn control arms
ZQ8 steering box
Flaming River U-joint steering MOD
Drilled and slotted rear disc conversion
Pioneer head unit
DMH electric cutouts
Bazoka 8" tube
Dedicated nitrous fuel system
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